Exclusive handmade knives No. 1 in Ukraine
Every day, 24/7
No days off
The structure of the knife: what are the names of certain parts of the blade and handle

The structure of the knife: what are the names of certain parts of the blade and handle

What's wrong with naming parts of a knife as you're used to (even if it's wrong)? Well, at least because you will not be understood on forums and naifovka, or they will be misunderstood, or they will still understand, but they will stick an offensive label of a noob on you.

So, we look at the scheme, read the explanation and memorize it.

The names of the parts of the knife

  1. A strip is a sword with a hilt (full or in the form of a rod), without a hilt.
  2. Blade length - the full length from the point of the knife to where the handle begins (to the shoulder blades of the blade or from the hilt/guard, if applicable).
  3. The blade is the part of the knife with which we cut. This refers to the entire visible metal part of the strip, excluding the hidden handle and parts of the device - guard, trim, etc.
  4. The shank is a metal part completely or almost completely hidden in the handle.
  5. The butt is the upper, unsharpened edge of the blade from the point to the handle, it may have a longitudinal edge for crushing cartilage, nuts, etc.
  6. Thumb rest - a small area on the butt of the blade in the handle, usually with a notch, used when holding the blade with the thumb resting on it.
  7. The bevel of the butt is the line of transition of the butt to the point, in the European tradition the braid is straight or concave (the so-called "pike"), in Japanese knives the braid is smooth and convex ("sheep's hoof").
  8. The sharpened butt bevel is an additional cutting edge formed by two narrow descents on the butt bevel to increase the effectiveness of stabbing blows, structurally bringing the knife closer to a dagger (a knife with a double-edged sharpening).
  9. Falschleswie is a part of the foothill formed by two narrow descents, which is sometimes sharpened.
  10. Holomin - the flat side surface of the blade from the butt to the beginning of the trigger line.
  11. Dol is what schoolchildren like to call a bloodbath. Of course, the dol does not have similar functions, but rather, it is intended to lighten the weight of the blade, preserving its longitudinal rigidity.

    Don't call a dol a bloodsucker if you don't want to be branded a noob on the forum

  12. Point/Toe – the point where the butt (or false blade, if available) meets the cutting edge.
  13. Edge of sharpening / Line of start of descent - can be a single plane with the descent itself in the case of their execution from the butt.
  14. Descents - formed by forging or grinding, two sides of the blade, descending on the blade, form its wedge-shaped cross section.
  15. Dulka is a semicircular radius recess that separates the cutting edge from the unsharpened part of the heel; protects the heel from damage during sharpening and editing.
  16. A cutting edge is a line formed at the intersection of two lines.
  17. The edges are two narrow, sharpened side faces along the cutting edge that shine when we look at the blade from the side. Often erroneously called a cutting edge, but this is not so: they form it in the line of descent.
  18. The rise of the blade is the place where the edges, together with the cutting edge enlightened by them, begin to rise to the butt. Here it is shown schematically, in fact, the lift can be performed not in an arc, but in a straight line, at an angle - for example, in American tanto.
  19. The working/fighting part - often coincides with the length of the blade: it is the entire cutting edge from the unsharpened heel to the tip.
  20. The working part is about five - on some types of knives, the part for rough work (chopping, adze) has greater strength, for example, due to a larger sharpening angle.
  21. Serreitor is a serrated, wear-resistant blade that can be used as a strop cutter.
  22. Dulka II is a semicircular radius recess that separates the cutting edge from the unsharpened part of the heel, protects the heel from damage during sharpening and correction.
  23. The fifth is a thickened unsharpened part, which makes the knife, as the nayfomans say, more grippy due to the possibility of an additional grip with the index finger with its overlay on the unsharpened part of the blade, and for the master it facilitates the task of combining the blade with the handle.
  24. The subdigital radius is an auxiliary recess of about five, also serves for the convenience of an additional grip on the blade with the index finger.
  25. Heel II - another part, also called the heel, is thickened and can be a stop if you press something against the blade of the knife.
  26. Shoulder pads - recesses on the sword at the point of transition into the shank, which are limiters when combining the blade with the details of the handle.
  27. Fastening holes – through holes on the shank and dies for joint fastening. It is used as a non-separable fastening (rivets) and a shaped threaded one (like a furniture screw-turnbuckle).
  28. Shank Thread/Screw – The back of the shank with a thread used under the turnbuckle with a tightening nut when mounting the handle through.
  29. Fastening/tightening nut – a shaped nut for fastening non-separable parts of the handle (stem, tool, shackle, rings, etc.) to the shank.
  30. The handle is the entire part of the knife, intended for holding it with the brush of the hand, with safety elements: overlays, cheren, guard, bolsters (bolsters), back, pommels, stops, fastening elements, etc.
  31. The back of the handle is the part of the handle on the side of the butt of the blade.
  32. The belly of the handle is the part of the handle on the side of the cutting edge, which can be shaped for ease of grip with the hands.
  33. Black - a solid part of the handle, which is attached during the mounting between the parts of the device: the guard and the back, which is put on when mounting on the shank, for which we hold the knife with the brush of the hand.
  34. Handle plates/covers - in the case of surface mounting, detachable paired parts that are attached to the shank with a tightening fastener through holes or adhesive compounds.
  35. Cuts are paired metal parts that are mounted on the shank at the point of transition into the blade: on ordinary knives they serve for hygienic purposes, on complex ones - to increase the strength of the hinged connection between the blade and the handle.
  36. Limiter/bolster - it is good (for example, in tactical knives). A shaped part of the handle with a limiting protrusion at the heel of the blade, usually on the side of the cutting edge, serves for safe handling of the knife, prevents the hand from slipping on the blade during stabbing blows.
  37. The end of the bolster is the part of the bolster facing the blade.
  38. The front stop is the lower part of the bolster, a protrusion-limiter.
  39. Crimping ring/clamp – when mounting the handle, a special ring is put on the end of the shank to strengthen it.
  40. The crosspiece/limiter is the part of the handle adjacent to the heel, equipped with two-sided front stops - on the side of the blade and the butt.
  41. The fitting is an oblong metal cap that is worn on the part of the handle near the heel during bolt-on installation.
  42. Underfinger notch - serves as an additional stop on the handle for ease of use of the knife during drawn types of cuts or when chopping.
  43. Pinch - a stop under the finger, placed between the middle and index finger, is used to increase the reliability of holding the brush handle.
  44. Pommels/buttplate – a separate, not always present part on the back of the handle like a plug, through which the tightening nut tightens the parts of the handle during breech assembly; can be decorated with engraving, masking, etc.
  45. Backstop - a stop under the little finger or the base of the palm, used on knives of the chopping type.
  46. The end is the back part of the top.
  47. A hole for a lanyard - a hole into which a lanyard cord/strap can be slipped; it is done both to prevent the loss of the knife (when working at height or on water) and for the convenience of removing the knife from the sheath or pocket, it is mostly found in knives of a rather large size.
  48. Decorative riveting is a decorated fastening or decorative element in the form of a fastening on a handle.
  49. Rivets/screws – tightening fasteners for end-to-end mounting of paired parts on the handle: overlays, dies, pins.
  50. Spacers - are made to increase the grip of the palm with smooth shanks (for example, thin brass washers on set leather shanks) or as decorative elements.


Knife parts


INFORMATION FROM THE PORTAL - https://www.ukr-info-portal.de/zahalna-budova-nozhiv-z-fiksovanym-klynkom-i-pikhov/


A knife with a fixed blade (Ukrainian slang - fixed, English Fixed Blade Knife)  consists of  a strip of  metal or other material and is divided into two parts:

  • The blade  is intended for cutting, piercing and planing wood;
  • Shank  - for fastening the handle.

Blade

The general structure of a knife blade

The length of the blade  is measured from the tip to the end of the bolster or crosspiece or, if there are none, to the front end of the handle. If the end of the bolster, crosspieces or handle are located at an angle to the vertical axis of the knife, then the length of the blade is measured to the edge of the end furthest from the point.

 


Blade width = blade thickness = stock thickness

Its strength, cut and weight depend on the thickness of the blade. Changing the thickness of the blade has the opposite effect on these factors. Yes, wider blades are harder to break, but because of their size, they have a harder time sinking into the material when cutting, and they are quite heavy. And the thinnest blades are less reliable and stable, but have a better cut and less weight. The choice of blade thickness directly depends on the purpose of the knife. So, for example, tourist knives, especially designed for cutting wood and batoning, must be resistant to extreme loads and have an increased blade thickness. Tourist knives, which are not intended for rough work, can have a smaller blade width, which makes them lighter and improves the cut. In contrast, kitchen knives designed only for cutting can be given as an example. The width of their blades is made as thin as possible to the extent that ensures the proper strength of the blade.

The width of the blade is measured at the widest point - at the butt.

 


The height of the blade

The cut of the knife largely depends on the height of the blade.

Thus, on knives with the appropriate height, it is possible to form the belly of the blade of sufficient size, which, due to its geometry, facilitates cutting. Having a sufficient height of the blade also allows you to form a longer cutting edge without increasing the length of the blade. The long cutting edge increases the length of the cutting material in one pass, which also has a positive effect on the cut. If the blade is too high, its maneuverability and cutting accuracy are lost.


The point of the blade  is the point of convergence of the butt and the blade, false blade or two blades in knives with double or one-and-a-half sharpening - daggers. The tip determines the penetration and penetration of the quality of the blade during stabbing and drilling .


The shape of the point

The tip can have an angular or rounded shape, characteristic of children's knives, which are characterized by maximum safety of use.


Tip thickness

The finer the point, the better its penetrating ability, but the worse its strength. The thickness of the tip is largely determined by the angle of convergence of the butt and the blade or two blades. Traditionally, a fine point is characteristic of combat and dueling knives, such as daggers, stilettos, and clip point knives. All-purpose knives have a medium-thick tip. Blades with a tanto shape are distinguished by the thickest point.


The position of the point in relation to the central line of the knife

The position of the point in relation to the central line of the knife largely determines the functions of the knife. The most controllable and most receptive to the application of effort during the injection is the point located on the central line of the knife.

Raised above the center line of the knife, the tip is poorly controlled and poorly vulnerable to applied forces.

The lowered point is not suitable for stabbing actions, but makes the use of the knife safe.


The blade  is the sharpened side of the blade, consisting of a cutting edge and a lead = chamfer. On some knives, an additional lead is also formed - a micro trigger. The blade can be located on one side of the blade - one-sided sharpening, on both sides of the blade - double-sided sharpening, and it can also be sharpened false blade - one-and-a-half sharpening. Double and one-and-a-half sharpening are characteristic of dagger blades.

The blade is smooth or saw-like - serrated or semi-serrated.


The working / fighting part of the blade  runs from the tip to the end of the blade.


Belly = the rise of the blade -  the convex, arcuate part of the blade that goes to the point.

The belly lengthens the cutting edge without lengthening the blade. Extending the cutting edge increases the length of the material to be cut in one cutting stroke.

The belly also provides a variable angle cut, which increases cutting efficiency. Some knives, intended only for cutting, such as skinners for removing skins from prey, are distinguished by large and well-defined bellies. The cleaning and cutting functions of such knives are limited.

Dagger and stiletto blades intended for slashing have almost no blade belly. This requires significant cutting effort and reduces the depth of cut.


The back part of the blade is  close to the ricasso and is used for cutting with maximum force.


Guides  are parts of the blade adjacent to the cutting edge that can be sharpened. In some traditional Scandinavian knives, the approaches and descents are combined into one plane.


The descents  are the parts of the blade that taper to the blade. They are formed during milling or forging. Descents reduce the thickness of the blade, facilitating the entry of the knife into the material during cutting and increasing the depth of immersion.

For cutting soft materials, such as food, it is better to use blades with slopes from the butt (kitchen knives) or high slopes. Low bevel knives, such as bushcraft and all-purpose hunting knives, have low bevels to increase the strength of the knife. They are adapted to high loads when planing wood. They are also convenient for cutting meat. But the cutting of harder products, such as hard vegetables (potatoes, beets), is associated with a sharp plunge of the descents into the material, and then braking of the blade in the material. To continue cutting, pressure must be applied to the blade, which, when immersed in hard vegetables, splits them more than it cuts. At the same time, it is difficult to control the depth and direction of the cut.


Descent rib = descent line  – the line of transition of the golomen into the descents.


Holomin -  the lateral flat side of the blade between the butt and the line of descent.


Dil  (from the common Slavic dol – pit, lowland) is a longitudinal depression on the holomen of the blade. Doles can be located on one or both sides of the blade. Doles lighten the weight of the blade, increase its breaking strength and have an aesthetic function.


Butt -  the upper unsharpened side of the blade, opposite the blade. Dagger swords with two-sided sharpening do not have a hilt.

The butt can perform the following functions:
- the sharp edges of the butt are good for cutting sparks from the chair;
- the butt can be used for crushing nuts, bones and joints;
- with a blow on the butt, a knife is driven into wood for chopping firewood during batoning.


Saw on the butt –  Survival knives and tactical knives sometimes have a saw on the butt. This saw is not designed for wood. Saws were first integrated into the butts of survival knives for military aircraft pilots during the Vietnam War. The saw was intended for cutting the aluminum skin of airplanes and organic glass cabins. It was used in the event of an emergency landing of the plane, when the pilot had to get out of the damaged car on his own. Today, such a saw on the butt of knives is in most cases a tribute to fashion and has no practical value.


The butt bevel is  the inclination of the butt towards the blade tip, to reduce the thickness of the tip. It can be smooth like drop point blades, concave like clip point blades or convex like sheepsfoot blades .

False chamfer  is a chamfer-notch on the slope of the shoe, which makes the bevel narrower. Its functions:

- reduction of blade weight;
– increasing the penetration ability of the knife blade tip during stabbing actions, which is important for combat knives;
– improving the balance of the knife by shifting it towards the handle, which is important for large knives.

SKIS-PIKE (FALSE LOCK)
The presence of this element allows you to drill holes in wood and other hard materials. With the help of a false blade on a pike, cans can be opened without damaging the cutting edge (the knife is held with a conventional grip with the cutting edge up). If necessary, the false blade can be sharpened in the field, and a knife can be used to select a small animal. However, it is worth remembering that in this case your knife can go to the XO category, be careful!


A sharpened bevel of the butt - in the presence of a false blade, increases the penetrating properties of the knife during pricking blows. As a rule, it is used on daggers with one and a half sharpening and knives with clip point blades.


Notched thumb rest  is a small area on the butt of the blade near the hilt. It serves to increase the controllability of the knife and the accuracy of the cut when carrying out fine work, as well as to increase the cutting force by applying pressure directly to the blade.

Experienced users consider the thumb rest with notches on the buttock redundant and damaging to the thumb with long-term use.


Ricasso = heel -  the unsharpened part of the blade near the handle, which does not have slopes. Ricasso increases the bending strength of the blade under lateral loads, simplifies sharpening on the bars and controllability of the knife if it has a choil and an underfinger notch. A blade marking is often placed on the ricasso.


Subfinger radius  is a rounded notch for the index finger on the ricasso for extra grip on the blade. It is used to increase the controllability of the blade and the accuracy of the cut when carrying out thin works due to the shortening of the length of the blade.


Choil  is a small notch where the blade joins the ricasso. It is used to improve the accuracy of blade sharpening. Choil plays the role of a separator between the blade and the ricasso, protecting the latter from scratches with an abrasive material during sharpening.


Air pockets  are depressions on the blade of kitchen knives. They are designed to create an air cushion between the blade and the material during cutting. Serve for better separation of the cutting material from the blade. Necessary for cutting particularly thin pieces such as ham, salmon or cheese.


Marking  - contains the manufacturer's mark, model and steel grade. On inexpensive knives, it is applied with paint, on expensive knives - with engraving.

Shank

The handle  is attached to the shank of the knife and serves to hold (grip) the knife with the brush of the hand. It can be made of different materials.

The upper part of the handle on the line of the butt of the blade is called  the back.  The opposite part of the handle on the line of the blade is called  the belly.  The fingers lie on the belly of the sleeve with a straight grip.

As a rule, both handles are located on the line of the blade, which is the most convenient for a universal knife.

In the knives of Canadian hunters, the handle is raised above the blade, which increases the comfort of the cut when performing many jobs.

In pole knives, the handle is perpendicular to the blade.

The handle can be formed by:

  • overlays or  scale dies when  mounting the handle  (the overlays are attached to the shank from both sides);
  • with a blackhead when  inserting the handle  (the blackhead is attached to the shank);
  • spacers -  plates, usually made of leather, birch or plastic, which are attached to the shank. Characteristic for a set (composite) handle with  through-mounting.

The handle may contain additional elements, such as:

–  underfinger notches  – semicircular notches in various parts of the belly of the handle. They make it easier and more reliable to hold the knife, preventing it from slipping. Underfinger notches are convenient for pulling types of cuts and scars;

light-accumulating inserts  for quickly finding the knife in low light conditions;

–  a safe sling cutter  for cutting seat belts.

An additional stop on the handle is quite rare and is usually used on large knives. It is placed between the middle and index fingers and serves to improve the grip of the knife when inserting and removing it from material such as hunting prey or wood. At the same time, the additional stop impairs the maneuverability of the knife. If there is an additional stop, only a straight grip of the knife and a reverse grip with the blade forward are possible.

The additional stop was developed and first implemented by the American knifemaker Robert W. Loveless in 1954. The first model with an additional stop was called Big Bear.

When mounting on the handle, there may be:

– crimping ring/clamp –  a covering metal overlay on the shank handle to strengthen it and prevent it from splitting and cracking, one or more crimping rings can be worn on the shank;

– forging –  a covering metal overlay on the black handle in the ricasso area, in some cases the clip is connected to the bolster, the functions of the forging are similar to those of the crimp ring;

– shoulders –  places where the blade joins the shank, which limit the entry of the blade into the handle.

The shank may contain  optional safety elements: a bolster, a crosspiece, and a pommel . These elements improve the characteristics of the knife, but there are many models of knives where these elements are missing. In front, in the place of attachment of the handle to the blade, it can be limited by a bolster or a cross in combat knives, and on the back side by a pommel.


A bolster  is a pad, usually made of metal, in the front and most vulnerable part of the handle, adjacent to the blade. It can be paired when mounting the handle on top or one-piece when mounting the handle. In all-metal knives, the bolster is part of the blade. The part of the bolster facing the blade is called  the end of the bolster.

In folding knives, flat pads on the handle on both sides are called  bolsters  (in English, bolster and bolster have the same name - bolster). The axis of connection between the blade and the handle passes through them, and they give the knife great strength.

Functions of the bolster:

  • protects the front end of the handle from damage when the blade slips from hard materials (for example, when planing). Handles of knives without a bolster, used for rough work, often chip, peel and loosen from the side of the blade;
  • ensures the balance of the knife;
  • integral bolster increases the resistance of the knife to lateral loads, redistributing them;
  • improves the appearance of the knife, carrying a decorative function;
  • the bolster can have a front stop - a protrusion behind the lower plane of the knife (formed by the blade and the belly of the knife), which serves to prevent fingers from slipping on the blade. Many knives, such as Finnish ethnic puukko knives, do not have stops. Such knives are more maneuverable, but they are good only for experienced users. In some kitchen and tourist knives, the front stop can be formed by a ricasso or the working part of the blade.

Two-sided stops, formed by a narrow plate located between the handle and the blade, is called  a cross . It is characteristic of combat knives and prevents the hand from slipping on the blade during a powerful stabbing blow. On World War II combat knives, the crosspiece often has an S-bent shape.


The pommel  is a pad that adjoins the rear end of the handle. The pommel protects the rear end of the handle from damage, can perform a decorative function, being decorated with engraving or made in the form of various figures.

The rear support  is the curved part of the pommel or the handle, which provides a stop for the little finger. The rear support prevents the knife from slipping when pulling it out of dense or viscous material. Also, the rear stop makes it easier to pull the knife out of the sheath. The rear support with its weight improves the balance of combat knives, shifting it to the side of the handle and thus increasing the controllability of the knife.


Butt  - the very back part of the pommel or handle. The end can perform the following functions:

- the flat metal end can be used as a hammer if necessary, for example, for breaking nuts, bones or hammering tent pegs. An oval or curved end is not suitable for such actions;

- the metal end, if necessary, can receive blows when driving a knife into the material (for example, into ice to make holes);

- the end can be equipped with a glass breaker (German Glasbrecher, English glass breaker), which is characteristic of rescue knives. Although glass can be broken with the point of a blade;

– the end of combat knives can be equipped with an impact protrusion (German Schädelbrecher, English skull crusher). It is used for blows to the opponent's head, as well as for breaking glass.


A hole for a lanyard  is made in the pommel or handle. A lanyard is, as a rule, a braided cord that serves for:
-quick and convenient extraction of a knife;
- reliable holding of the knife in the hand;
- as a decoration for a knife, especially if there is a beautiful bead.

Installation of the handle

Overhead mounting  of the handle

This is the most widespread installation of the handle in the countries of the Western world. It is characterized by high reliability and durability. The knife does not lose its functionality when the pads are damaged - they are easily replaced or you can simply wrap the shank with a cord.

In the case of surface mounting, the two-sided pads, which make up the handle, correspond in shape and size to the shank. On expensive knives, spacers are placed between the shank and the pads. They isolate the shank and pads from each other, and also have a decorative function.

The pads are attached to the shank with screws, rivets (mosaic rivets are the prettiest) or hollow tubes (which are not very good because they get clogged easily with mud). Screw connections are the most optimal. They allow you to eliminate the backlash that appears over time between the linings and the shank and to quickly change the linings if necessary.

 Advantages of overhead mounting of the handle

 high reliability of the knife design;
 high resistance to loads and durability;
 with a broken handle, the knife remains functional, especially when winding the shank with a cord;
 ease of manufacture.

 Disadvantages of overhead mounting of the handle

 weighting the knife;
 in cold weather unpleasantly cools the palm when holding, the need to work in the cold in gloves;
 increased price of the knife (more expensive than analogues by about 1/3 of the price), since more steel is used for the shank;
 high consumption of metal per shank;
 limited options for handle decoration.

Along with designs with a full-length shank, there are cheaper models with half-length shanks. They are less durable and resistant to loads, but they have lower prices and the knife weighs less.

The most reliable of knives with an overlay assembly of the handle are integral (one-piece) knives, where the bolster and pommel are cut from one solid piece of steel along with the blade and shank. Semi-integral knives have only a bolster and no pommel.

Integral knives are expensive and heavy, but at the same time they are the strongest and most durable.

Knives of the integral type are a one-piece design, where the bolster or crosspiece and the butt are one piece, and a groove is carved under the pads. In the photo below is the overlay knife.

Photo taken from https://www.instagram.com/p/BtKS9z9hjdD/?igshid=or68uvl6jrbt

The backplate, bolster and crosspiece are basically component parts, and here they are integrated into one with the sword, hence the name.

Photo taken from https://www.instagram.com/p/BtcTVb9BT8w/?igshid=yqy49d8fhqic

The production of integral knives is very expensive, as they use much more metal than full tang knives. At the same time, most of the metal is cut off and goes into the waste.


Hidden mounting of the handle  (Hidden Tang).

It is distinguished by a shank hidden in the handle, which allows:

  • prevent contact of the shank metal with the palm. This is important for northern countries to prevent hypothermia of the palm;
  • save the metal of the shank, which reduces the cost of knives;
  • lighten the weight of the knife due to the reduced shank.
Push-in assembly of the handle

Butt mounting of the handle is the most ancient and simple way of mounting the handle. It is much less reliable than overhead mounting. However, it is indispensable for the knives of the Nordic countries, as it does not involve the contact of the palm with the metal, as well as for the production of knives in the middle price category.

Flush mounting  can be carried out in three ways:

1. According to ancient technologies, the shank was hammered into steamed wood.

2. According to more modern technology, the shank is inserted into the drilled groove of the wooden handle and fixed with epoxy resin or glue.

3. In the production of modern knives with plastic handles, the shank is filled with hot plastic, from which the handle is formed by pressing.

The shank when mounted is shorter and narrower than the handle. The shorter and narrower the shank, the less strong the knife. Often, knife manufacturers save metal and make shanks that are too short, less than half the length of the handle. Such knives are unreliable, over time their handle may crack at the end of the shank. In a high-quality knife, the length of the shank should be at least 3/4 of the length of the handle.

Since the shank is hidden in the handle (hidden tang), it is difficult to determine its length and height, which makes it impossible to assess the strength of the knife. You can use a magnet to roughly determine the length of the shank. The height of the shank cannot be determined at home.

The cross pin significantly strengthens the design of the knife.

 Advantages of mounting the handle

 lack of contact of the shank with the palm when holding, which is especially important in cold weather. That's why the ethnic knives of the peoples of the far north have a mounting handle;
 the low price of the knife due to the low consumption of metal per shank;
 lightness of the knife;
 maintainability

 Disadvantages of the breech assembly of the handle

 medium strength and reliability of the knife, low resistance to loads;
 impossibility to determine the size of the shank during inspection,
as it is hidden in the handle.


Through mounting  of the handle

It is less reliable than overhead mounting, but more reliable than flush mounting. Through mounting of the handle reliably isolates the metal of the shank from contact with the palm, which is important for knives of northern countries.

The narrow and thin shank passes through a drilled hole in the handle and is fixed by a rivet or nut (sometimes integrated into the pommel) at the end of the handle.

Fixing the shank with a rivet is the most reliable. The disadvantage of this installation is the impossibility of replacing the handle.

When fixing the shank with a nut, the main load falls on the threaded connection. Therefore, for reliability, it is necessary to ensure a sufficient thread length.

To prevent the handle from twisting, the shank must be rectangular in shape.

 Advantages of through-mounting the handle

 lightness of the knife;
 lack of contact of the shank with the palm when holding, which is especially important in cold weather. That is why the ethnic Finnish puukko knives use exactly the through-mounting of the handle;
low consumption of metal per shank;
 the possibility of using a decorative set handle made of birch bark plates, leather, multi-colored plastic, wood or other material.

 Disadvantages of through-mounting the handle

 low strength and reliability of the knife.


Through mounting of the handle through the pin

It is the least reliable way of mounting the handle, which is used to save metal on the shank. Screw pins are made of cheap metal, reducing the cost of the knife. Through-mounting of the handle is widely used in third world countries and the Russian Federation.

Knife sides

The knife has a front side on which the point is on the left. As a rule, the marking of the knife is on the front side.

The reverse side of the knife is characterized by the location of the point on the right.

Sheath

A scabbard is  a case for a bare blade that protects both the knife and its user from damage. Scabbards are also intended for carrying, transporting and storing a knife.

Differences between sheaths and covers.  The cover, unlike the scabbard, does not have a fastener for wearing on a belt or clothes. Therefore, the case can be used only for transporting and storing the knife, but not for carrying it.

Sheaths of tourist and hunting knives are usually hung on the belt. Therefore, they must have a belt ring or holes for pulling the belt. The main parts of the scabbard are a cover consisting of two walls, a mouth - a hole for inserting a knife and sometimes a fastener in the form of a button or Velcro, which fixes the knife in the scabbard.

Comments

Write Comment