DELFIN II knife handmade by master Pavlo Goncharenko, order to buy in Ukraine, steel - DI69-MP in laminate with n690, through nickel, 63 HRC

WHAT ARE MICARTA AND G10, AND HOW DO THESE COMPOSITE MATERIALS DIFFER FROM EACH OTHER?

For decades, Micarta and G10 composite materials have been the undisputed leaders in the knife industry, in particular for the production of handles of various complexity. The materials stand out for their availability, ease of production and processing, as well as high strength, wear resistance and unpretentiousness in maintenance. Both materials are composite, their basis is a polymer resin, which is supplemented with layers of captive fabric of various types.

Micarta-G10-Сomposite-materials-photo-2

Micarta material is an electrically insulating material consisting of a polymer film (based on cresolaldehyde, phenolaldehyde, xylenolaldehyde resin, or resin from a mixture of phenolic raw materials). It is glued using various electrically insulating papers, fabric (mainly flax of natural or artificial origin), or other materials of similar structure, there are also options made of fiberglass and carbon fiber. The color of the material depends on the resin and fabric base used in the gluing. Micarta is a relatively soft material and requires careful manual processing. Therefore, it is used in the production of handles for more expensive knives.

Micarta is registered as a trademark of the American company Industrial Laminates / Norplex, Inc. (Norplex-Micarta). Its domestic analogue can be considered a material called "Getinax", which is mainly used as a base for printed circuit boards. The material also has a sheet-like pressed structure, which consists of a paper base with the addition of impregnation from phenol-aldehyde or epoxy resin.

Linen-based micarta has a more attractive optical effect when the fibers are sanded. After sanding, the surface can be polished or sandblasted. In the first version, the surface of the material will be smooth, silky, warm and pleasant to the touch. In the second, the material becomes rough and has a matte finish, in addition, it holds securely in the hand and does not slip.

Key features of Micarta:

• increased water resistance;
• excellent resistance to temperature changes;
• strength to mechanical processing;
• dense structure that does not absorb odors;
• the microrelief of the material does not slip in the hand even on a wet surface;
• a tight fit to the blade, which leaves no gaps at all and prevents food residues and harmful microorganisms from accumulating.

G10 is a lightweight, hard and fairly rigid composite material with a textured surface, which is mainly used in the manufacture of handles of both folding pocket knives and fixed blade knives. This material is created by placing several layers of fiberglass, thoroughly impregnated with epoxy resin, in a special vacuum press, where, under the influence of compression and heat, the resin finally hardens, preserving the structure of the fiberglass.

G10 material is characterized by good impact resistance, wear resistance, moisture resistance, as well as ease of processing and maintenance. The material can be painted in various colors, including layers. The surface of G10 can also be polished to a glossy state, or have a rough anti-slip structure, under the influence of a grinding machine, or sandblasting.

Key features of G10:

• high stability of basic properties during temperature fluctuations;
• withstands high impact loads, compressive and tensile loads;
• high overall hydrophobicity and resistance to chemicals;
• weighs relatively little, in relation to the overall strength and density;
• low electrical conductivity;
• can take different forms.

Composite materials G10 and Micarta have almost the same composition and external similarity. At the same time, G10 material has higher fire resistance, although it is not a non-combustible material, has higher compressive, bending, impact and tear strength, and is also simpler and more budgetary in production. At the same time, G10 is inferior in terms of "tack" in wet conditions, and also, tactilely, feels less "natural".

Elk. Elk antlers are very often used by knifemakers to make knife handles.

The moose, also known as the elk, is a mammal that belongs to the order Artiodactyls, suborder Ruminants, family Cervidae, genus Elk (Latin: Alces).

NO ANIMALS WERE HARMED IN THE MAKING OF THE KNIVES!

Elk antlers are very often used by knifemakers to make knife handles.

Elk antler is not the most common material that craftsmen prefer to make their knife handles from. Most craftsmen prefer to work with denser and stronger antlers, for example, sambar or white-tailed deer. However, this does not mean that elk antlers are completely unsuitable for becoming a good knife handle. This statement is far from the truth, so in no case do not give up this idea.

Craftsmen really enjoy working with elk antler, especially when creating knives in the style of early American knives, or a la “primitive” knives. The shape, size, and texture of elk antlers are perfectly suited to knives of this type. Indeed, there is no other material, not even the antlers of other animals, that would look better on the handles of such knives than elk.

In my opinion, moose antlers are an extremely attractive and strong material for a handle, but to make it work well, a special approach is needed when working with antlers. What I can advise you is solely based on my personal experience, and I will tell you everything I know on the subject.

In general, there is no need to rush when working. And it does not matter what you are working on at the moment: whether you are forging a blade or adjusting a handle. I prefer to spend more time doing the job too well than not finishing something a little. You may agree with this or not, but these are my methods of work. Much of what I do may seem unnecessary and useless to you, however, I repeat: these are just my principles in work, and you are not obliged to fully adhere to them.

I have had a lot of experience working with moose antlers. The fact is that I was born in Hungary, a country with a huge number of moose, and therefore there are always plenty of them. It was in my homeland that I first started experimenting with moose antlers.

First of all, make sure that the materials you are going to work with are of the right quality: horns and wood, not taken from young animals and trees. They should be thoroughly dried. Make sure they have not come into contact with sources of moisture.

As was correctly noted, the core of the horns is quite porous. That is why I prefer to remove this soft porous core, and leave only the hard bony part of the horns. It is necessary to clean out most of the core, and then use a superfile to carefully clean the inside of the horn. Thus, a cavity is formed in the horn, which will be an order of magnitude larger than necessary.

I cut out pieces of wood to fill the gap. I usually use walnut, maple, or cherry. I choose these types of wood because they are light, durable, and have a dense texture. However, you can use any solid wood you like.

The wood placed inside the antler in this way doesn't have to fit perfectly. It's even better if you leave enough space inside the antler to allow for the glue or epoxy to fill in.

Once the wooden "filling" of the horn is evenly distributed inside the cavity, you will need to remove it to cut it lengthwise into two parts. Cut the wood so that the shank fits between the two halves. Once I am sure that the shank fits well, I make two small rivets. This structure forms a kind of additional handle, which will replace the same porous soft substance that I removed from the inside of the horn.

And when I am sure that all the parts of my knife fit harmoniously and firmly, I proceed to epoxy gluing the handle of the knife and the antler - the outer part. Thus, I get a knife with an internal shank. To do this, I make four or five grooves in the wood, and with the help of special equipment I make the same grooves on the inner part of the moose antler. Thus, sufficient space is created for the epoxy, which properly fastens all the parts of the knife. When you glue all the parts, you can additionally fasten the handle with a through pin. This, of course, is only possible if your shank can be drilled with a drill without consequences.

This is how I have been making absolutely all my knives for quite a long time. And, knocking on wood three times, I have never received any complaints and have not had any difficulties with these knives. However, in your opinion, today there are other techniques for making knives from elk antler using sophisticated modern equipment that fully meet the high standards of knife production.

You can also make a knife from an elk antler without removing its soft interior. But in this case, the blade will eventually loosen.

The name "elk" probably comes from the Old Slavic "ols", which refers to the red color of the fur that newborn elks have. Another common name for the elk since ancient times in Russia is "sohatiy", apparently due to the similarity of its antlers to a plow, an ancient agricultural tool.